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Replacing REAR HUB SEALS - RA-101-20

Because the seal is in a blind hole, there's no place to pull or push on it to get it out. I put the tip of a thin flat blade screwdriver on the joint between the face of the seal and the housing, tap it into the joint and pry the seal down and out of the housing. When installing the new seal, put the flat side of the seal upwards in this picture, that is, towards the inside end of the rotating hub.

You will also find that the new seal is a little narrower than the depth of the counterbore that it goes into inside of the hub. The seal needs to be fitted all the way down into the bore until it fits face to face with the bottom of the hole. This is a problem because the back edge of the seal is quite narrow and rubber coated, so it's not a good place to poke around with a punch.

Lacking a good seal driver of that size, I found that the bottom end of an aerosol paint can was about the right diameter to do the job. I wouldn't necessarily recommend this as a driver tool, but I did get it to work in a pinch. If you do use a paint can for this purpose, be sure that it's empty, that all of the pressure has been released, that you remove the spray nozzle, and that you punch a hole in the can to ventilate it. These cans are pretty flimsy and do not take well to a pounding with a hammer.

Removing the seal
At 10:16 PM 1/6/2007 -0500, Charles Jackson adds these tips:
If the bearing is as impossible to insert in the hub as was mine,
  • Use a 3” pipe flange as a tool to press the bearing into the hub. It provides a ‘perfect’ fit over the outer race of the bearing.
  • Don’t go crazy trying to get the bearing seated all the way down to the oil seal. It won’t go. I didn’t realize this until I put a disk wheel bearing spacer next to the bearing and realized the bearing was fully seated because the spaced was even with the lip of the hub.
  • The bearing will go in a lot easier if you freeze the bearing over night while leaving a light bulb on the hub.

    When putting the hub on the axel carrier, the 3” pipe flange is fine to start the bearing on the axel carrier, but first use a bearing spacer until you get the bearing a bit over the axel carrier threads, otherwise, you might hit the axel carrier's threads. Then switch to something like a 1 ½ socket to finish the job.


    I don't make a habit of this with standard type parts, but someone mentioned a cross reference number for the hub seal. "National Federal Mogul Seal #331107N 2.000" X 2.746" X .375" is a good to go seal."
    A quick web search turned up the following numbers for interchangeable seals:

    Part # / Supplier
    020010551SS JMANVL
    10551SS JMANVL
    10A45F AAMCO
    15146 FELTPR
    1573 ALLOY
    194358 AUSWES
    19807 C-R
    19821 C-R
    248C20006 TROSTL
    273HMS2 C-R
    273HMS2L C-R
    29398 DELCO
    331107 OEM
    331107N NATIONAL
    331107N TIMKIN
    Part # / Supplier
    46165 VICTOR
    502337 C-R
    506255 C-R
    5062SS C-R
    508075 C-R
    59520S TROSTL
    6150037 FORD
    84651 C-R
    84651 MCCOR
    84651H MCCOR
    84651N MCCOR
    A81101P L&S
    A81101S TROSTL
    B9A77837A B-W
    B9A77837A FORD
    Part # / Supplier
    C0DP7A248A FORD
    C2AP7A248A FORD
    C2AP7A248A2 FORD
    C30P7A248A1 FORD
    K01 AUTOTP
    PR1865 REPCO
    PR5539 REPCO
    S15210 FELTPR
    T1895 CHRYSL
    T270F MCQUAY
    T331107 TROSTL
    UD0241E NOK
    UD0241E0 NOK
    XP32496 FORD
    XP34777 FORD
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