|The MGA With An Attitude
REAR SPLINED HUB R&R - RA-107
MGA & Early MGB
At 07:50 AM 2/24/2007 -0700, Russ Fleehearty wrote:
>"What do you suggest as far as removing the rear splined hub from the axle?"
Drill a hole in the Welch plug (a little off center), and pull it out with a slide hammer (a.k.a. dent puller). Make note of the distance from end of the splined half shaft to the shoulder where the Welch plug sits. This should be 1/8-inch or less, but should not interfere with installation of the Welch plug.
Use a 20 ton press to push the axle out of the hub. Sometimes 10 tons is not enough force to move it. Some local auto parts stores may have a large press in the back room, especially places that do a little machine work like valve jobs and turning brake drums. Make a few phone calls to find a local place with a big press.
Press a new hub the same distance onto the axle, within 1/8-inch of the seating surface where the Welch plug sits, but not to interfere. If the shaft pressing stops as much as 1/8-inch shy of the shoulder the half-shaft may bottom out on the differential pinion shaft before seating the gasket at the outboard flange. Install a new Welch plug to finish the job.
On 6/13/2012, Del Rawlins in Alaska wrote:
"I was not able to use the suggested method of drilling for the screw type slide hammer dent puller. There was not enough space between the plug and the end of the axle shaft (on the order of 1/16") and I couldn't get the screw to engage in the plug. I broke 3 of the screws in the attempt. On the first hub, I cut away enough of the old hub to provide room for attacking the plug with a chisel and screw driver and eventually got it out.
"Got a little smarter on the second one (see attached photo). I tack welded a bolt to the plug with the mig gun. Bolt was sized to work with one of my slide hammers, but that was not necessary. Between the heat of welding, and the leverage provided by the bolt, it just pushed out of the hub by hand".